Conrad Chia Laguna (Sardinia) review

Getting away from it all has special meaning on Sardinia – the wildness and resulting seclusion of its people are considered central to why so many live to 100, earning it Blue Zone status.
A stay at the Conrad Chia Laguna puts you at the southerly tip, well away from populated centres, beside protected coastal wetland. Rocky hillsides are stubbled with aromatic myrtle, rosemary and juniper, giving way to the eponymous grass-fringed lagoon and, beyond that, glittering sand and the azure Mediterranean.
Deferring to these natural wonders, the Conrad’s 107 rooms offer understated luxury, most with a generous balcony to celebrate that view. Further down the hill on the same resort, 240 family villas make up The Village, while the Curio Collection, consisting of 77 cliffside cottages, is geared for quieter escapes. The three converge at a central piazza, where you can shop for trinkets or sip espresso.
The lagoon recedes at the peak of summer, so birdwatchers might prefer to visit off-season to marvel at pink flamingos in congregation (also protected) or flying in formation at dinnertime in search of red prawns. That’s no wonder, since the prawns are sweet, plump, and thankfully abundant. Seafood is a key feature across the resort’s seven restaurants, the flagship being La Terrazza, perched high at the Conrad. Tuna is plentiful, too, and usually served raw (crudo, carpaccio, or tartare) to showcase its mellow savouriness. The meat is just as good; executive chef Roberto Chergia serves red ox succulently rare with umami-rich parmesan cream, and on an island where sheep outnumber people, you must try the lamb. Sardinians have a refreshing approach to carbs, too, doubling up with culurgiones – where ravioli meets gnocchi.
You could opt for a late supper and do a ‘golden hour’ trek (with or without pony, or take an e-bike) as the sun dips to learn more about the life-giving herbs growing along the rugged coastline and used on Chergia’s plates. Look out for the helichrysum growing on sandy banks – an icon of longevity, with anti-inflammatory properties. Later, for a bracing elixir, try a champagne cocktail made with traditional myrtle liqueur.
The Conrad Spa harnesses the unique chemistry of its environment, too. Aromatherapy massages use the myrtle literally grown on the doorstep, honey produced by bees that feed on lavender, and mineral-rich salts (an experience enhanced with a guided walk around neighbouring salt pans). There are hydrotherapy options, including a whirlpool with a view, or the beach club is just a short buggy ride to the foot of the hill, where you can cool down in the clear blue Med.
Like anywhere else in Italy, wine is vital to the Sardinian lifestyle. Vermentino is the local grape – making a bright, citrussy drop – or if you prefer a full-bodied red, ask for bovale. If you’re serious about wine, visit Cantina Nuraghe Antigori winery for a guided tour and tasting with regional cheese and charcuterie pairings (around £50 per person). As a bonus, you’ll learn more about the fascinating history of the place – the Nuraghe Antigori is a Bronze Age settlement. Just remember to raise your glass as the ancients did, with “akentannos!” – that you may live to 100.
How to book
Rooms at the Conrad start from £234 B&B, The Curio from £208 B&B, The Village from £190 per night, half-board. chialagunaresort.com
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